VLADIMIR KARALEEV is one of the artists among Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and one of those designers Berlin urgently needs to bring a touch of art and variety into the fashion mess.

MBFW Berlin AW 2017 | VLADIMIR KARALEEV Show | Photos © Mercedes-Benz Fashion

Season after season, he devotes himself to deconstruction, transformation and his way of „working by feel“. His work is mostly characterized by an intense study of the human’s body and its connections with clothing through experimental incision and innovative shape. 

His ideas for autumn/winter 2017 resided in putting things into pieces, hence a lot of pullovers for men and women were turned into individual parts: sleeves, collars or yokes came in different colours and materials as the actual thing. Also, he combined tops, jackets, dresses and coats‘ heavy materials like woollen fabrics with lighter ones like silk. Some of his garments looked as if he had sewn two different clothes into one, almost like an ode to the layering often occurring in fashion in autumn and winter. 

The cuts and shapes were wide and in motion, diagonal lines and oblique edges dominated the cutting. It was rare to find straight edges, especially at the hemlines, which were almost all unfinished. A tailor would be annoyed, but this is Karaleev’s way of expression. He combined warming and comply looking things with elegant and flowing pieces and emphasised the materiality of the fabrics. Blue plaids, herringbone, quilted inside linings and orange-white striped set-ins attracted our attention. The colours were suitable to his warm and comfy winter looks: mud grey, bordeaux, brown, dark khaki and different blue shades.

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As typical Karaleev, the individual forms of his expression were propagated through fashion in an unobtrusively way, without disregarding the balance between material, shape and innovative details.